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S/S 2011 Menswear Collection Report: Burberry Prorsum

By Michael Kowalinski

Collection: Burberry Prorsum
Designer: Christopher Bailey
Season: Spring Summer 2011 

 
Christopher Bailey must have been in a bit of a subversive mood when he showed his menswear collection for Burberry in Milan. The studded vests, jackets and belts resembled what the young men who stand outside after the shows in Paris might wear. On second thought, it may have been a collection for a British soldier who plays with his bands in the evenings. What would they be called?
 
 Later on, white mesh sweaters were effortlessly worn with a structured jacket or trench and paired with Bailey’s gladiator-like sandals. Collared shirts with, once again, epaulettes, were sheer and suggestive. The second-skin motorcycle jackets or sweaters felt chic and strong, but still felt incredibly optimistic.

But what about the clothes? It was about mixing a recipe of fabrics and textures, like pairing leather with jersey, for example, or one long trench whose sleeves were a sort of hide. Incarnations of army inspired jackets and braided sweaters worn with tight black pants tucked into knee high boots that had the look of Wellingtons. Leather made an appearance on studded belts, jackets and the trench coats, which were longer than usual, or the jackets that were quite short.

 

It was a mix of hard and soft, which is perhaps the real masculinity of today. Hard elements were paired with soft ones, but make no mistake; this was a man’s man collection. Perhaps he is wearing these clothes in our dreams.


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