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Haute Couture Runway Report: Chanel Fall/Winter 10/11

By Michael Kowalinski

Collection: Chanel
Season: Haute Couture Fall/Winter 10/11
Designer: Karl Lagerfeld

For fall, Karl Lagerfeld has toned down his obsession with fur but maintained his love of luxury. It was the quintessential Chanel show, in all its splendor, and any woman of any age would delight in Lagerfeld’s ageless and warm offerings. It was an exercise in proportions. There were cropped jackets as far as the eye could see, at times worn over long sleeved blouses or with a dress that extended just below the knee, the new hemline for fall. When fur did make a cameo appearance, it did so in a trim on a tweed jacket with puffy sleeves. Indeed, the puffy sleeves continued on belted coats and jackets throughout the show. Transparency played a role in this play of grand proportions, often in sheer overlays over dresses. The short embroidered dresses felt powerful and were perhaps the standouts of the show due to the light and fresh feeling that one couldn’t help but feel when looking at them. If the hemlines seemed conservative, it helped to introduce the military feeling throughout the collection, as in a blood red dress that was pinned at the shoulder with a large brooch. A floral theme, too, appeared both subtly on cropped tops and in an oversized trim on a gold dress. Yes, the color palette of reds, blues, golds and brown that were interspersed with camel or white felt as precise as the many ideas presented in the show. It seems Mr. Lagerfeld has a lot to say, and we could listen on and on and on.

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